Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek: Part 5 - Himalaya to Macchapucchre Base Camp

We hit the trail particularly early this morning, at 5am, in order to minimize avalanche risk. Today we would be passing numerous avalanche prone areas (avalanche chutes) that lead down into the valley, from Huin Chuli on one side and from Macchapucchre and Mardi Himal on the other. The reason we stayed the previous night at Himalaya was that we wanted to walk this section of trail in the early morning, before the snow begins to melt, increasing avalanche risk.

The air was moist and it was very cold, so we were happy to keep a quick pace along the slowly ascending trail. 


Frank standing next to this big boulder, referred to as 'Hinku's Cave'.



We reached the next settlement of Deurali (3200m) in about an hour...faster than expected. We stopped for an energy boosting breakfast of cheese chapati and eggs.

Another beautiful alpine plant specimen.

The snow pile at the bottom of an avalanche chute.


At almost exactly 9am we heard a thundering roar in the distance and we turned to see a waterfall of snow cascading down a mountain side on the far wall of the valley (pictured below). We stopped and stared in awe but soon hurried along our way.


Yet another avalanche chute crossing.

At about 10am, as we were approaching Macchapucchre Base Camp (M.B.C.) (3700m), the clouds began to gather and thicken.

Shortly after reaching M.B.C. we were completely immersed in thick white clouds, denying us the beautiful view that was just beyond our sight.



By the afternoon the clouds had cleared a little to reveal some freshly coated snowy peaks, but Macchapucchre peak was still socked in.

It was very cold, windy and humid at this altitude and with no heating and little insulation we were confined to our room where we huddled in our sleeping bags and blankets for most of the day. We eagerly anticipated the climb to Annapurna Base Camp the next morning. 

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek: Part 4 - Chomrong to Himalaya

Within 5 minutes of arriving at the village of Chomrong, a fierce hail and thunder storm erupted and it raged all night long. In the morning, the skies were clear and we got an amazing view of the Modi Khola valley. Annapurna South was catching the morning light as we enjoyed our breakfast. This is the view from the Excellent View Guesthouse.


Once we hit the trail, we immediately descended about 500m down very steep stone stairs. Even with rest stops, our knees were wobbly by the time we reached the end of this difficult downhill climb.

We crossed a bridge and then proceeded to climb about 800m of vertical, mostly through green forests full of orchids and ferns, passing through the town of Sinuwa (2300m) along the way. This was the first of many small 'villages' we would pass along the valley, that consist only of guesthouses and have no permanent residents.

This is a rare thing indeed: a coniferous epiphyte! Botany geeks take note...

This bull seemed startled when we walked past him as he grazed on a stand of young bamboo trees.

As the trail went deeper into the Modi Khola valley we got a few glimpses of the area we would reach in the next few days.




The trail kept climbing, but less steeply, through lovely rhododendron forest.









There were a couple of crude wooden bridges along the trail to help cross the numerous small streams and waterfalls.

Ferns!

We descend down another steep stone staircase to the small village called Bamboo (2350m), and a light rain began to fall. The forest here was dominated by thick stands of bamboo trees and large coniferous trees.



We encountered a new species of Aroid. This one had a thicker pitcher and had bold purple patterns on it.

We dissected a broken flower we found, to take a closer look. Inside of the flower were thick waxy ridges that may be used in trapping insects. In the centre are all the reproductive parts of the flower. You see the stamens at the bottom where it is likely the trapped insects would become covered in pollen.

Our legs were growing weary from all the constant climbing and descending. As we came around a corner in the trail, we could see our destination ahead, the tiny village of Himalaya (2920m). However we still had half an hour of walking ahead of us until we reached it.


If you look at the trunk of this rhododendron you can sort of make out an angry face someone carved.

Himalayan blackberry. This will look familiar to anyone who lives in the Pacific Northwest, because this plant has become an invasive species since it was introduced to North America. While it takes over vacant lots and overwhelms gardens back home, here it is much less aggressive,  merely forming small clumps by the side of the trail


Himalaya consisted of only two lodges, and we were a little underwhelmed at the quality of food and service, but what can you really expect almost 3000m up, miles away from any civilization.

Friday, May 25, 2012

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek: Part 3 - Tadapani to Chomrong

As we were eating our breakfast the next morning we saw a helicopter flying towards the town. It had been called by two girls at our hotel who seemed to only be suffering from mild illnesses. I guess the mountains aren't for everyone! We watched as the pilot of this enormous helicopter somehow managed to manoeuvre it into this small grass patch next our hotel. It took 3 tries before a successful landing could be made.  

Soon we set off for some more beautiful rhododendron forest hiking.


The trail descended steeply into a valley for 800m, before climbing up another mountain.


Next to where we stopped for lunch was a tree with beautiful blooming orchids growing on it.

After many more ascents and descents we finally reached Chomrong (2300m).